Getting the first layer right is crucial – it’s the foundation of your print. If that layer sticks well and is flat, the rest of the model usually builds nicely. If not, you’ll end up with warps, lifted corners or a failed print from the start. In PLA printing, the main culprits tend to be a mis-leveled bed, wrong nozzle gap, or improper temperatures. Once those are in good shape, PLA usually adheres without much fuss.
Adjusting Nozzle Height (the “Squish it more” myth)
You might have heard, “Just crank the bed knobs until the filament squishes hard into the bed.” A little squish is good – it helps the hot PLA bond to the surface. But too much squish is bad: the nozzle will drag on the filament, creating ridged, rough lines or “toothpaste” blobs.
In practice, aim for the nozzle gap to be just right. The classic trick is to slip a clean piece of paper under the nozzle at each corner: it should drag slightly but still move. The ideal gap is nearly zero – just a human hair’s thickness. You can also use a feeler gauge instead of paper for more precision.
Once this is set, you should see a nicely flattened first layer that sticks firmly without being squashed completely flat. If you’re switching filaments, avoid re-leveling with thick paper; instead, adjust the first-layer height in your slicer. The Z-offset itself should usually stay fixed.
Printing Speed and Cooling
One common tip is to print the first layer slowly. This advice is actually solid: a slower speed (around 20–40 mm/s) gives molten PLA more time to bond to the bed. Reducing first-layer speed is one of the most reliable ways to improve adhesion.
Cooling is also important. PLA often sticks better if the part-cooling fan is off or very low for the first layer. Too much cooling can shrink the hot plastic quickly and cause curling or ripples. Try setting the fan to 0–20% for layer one.
Bed Temperature
For PLA, a warmed bed helps significantly. A good starting point is around 60 °C. PLA sticks well at 50–60 °C, and you can increase to ~65 °C if edges are lifting. Increase temperatures slowly if you see warping.
Be cautious: above ~70 °C, the bottom layers can soften and create an “elephant’s foot” bulge. A safe combination for most printers is a 60 °C bed and a 200–215 °C nozzle.
Using Adhesives (Glue, Tape, Hairspray)
You’ve probably heard “use glue stick” or “spray hairspray on the bed!” These adhesion aids can help on smoother beds like plain glass. A thin layer of PVA glue, glue stick, or a light mist of hairspray can improve grip.
Blue painter’s tape is also popular. It creates a slightly textured surface that PLA grabs well. It’s inexpensive and beginner-friendly.
However, modern surfaces like textured PEI generally need no adhesives at all. Glue should be a backup, not the default solution.
Best Build Surfaces for PLA
Textured PEI Spring Steel Sheet
A textured PEI-coated spring steel sheet is one of the best surfaces for PLA. It offers excellent adhesion while hot and easy print removal when cool.
Upgrade example:
Flexible PEI spring steel build plate
(choose one sized for your printer).
Glass Bed
Glass is very flat and gives a shiny bottom finish. Clean it well with soap or alcohol, heat it to about 60 °C, and PLA usually sticks well. Some users prefer adding a thin layer of glue stick for better grip.
Blue Painter’s Tape
Blue painter’s tape is simple and effective. Cover the bed, smooth out bubbles, and print. It does need replacing regularly but works even on non-heated beds.
Bed-Leveling Tools and Tips
Paper / Feeler Gauge
The classic paper test works, but you can get more consistent results using a precision feeler gauge.
Recommended tool:
Feeler gauge set
(ideal for accurate nozzle–bed distance).
Auto Bed Leveling (ABL)
Auto-leveling probes (like BLTouch or CR-Touch) reduce manual leveling effort. These sensors probe the bed and create a mesh that compensates for unevenness. Many printers like Prusa and Bambu include ABL by default.
Bed-Leveling Accessories
Helpful upgrades include:
- Silicone leveling springs
- Large metal thumb nuts
- Anti-backlash leveling nuts
Upgrade kits example:
Bed leveling kit for Ender-style printers
Bringing It All Together
A great PLA first layer is a smooth, even ribbon of plastic that bonds strongly to the build surface. Focus on the fundamentals:
- Level the bed with a thin, consistent gap (paper or gauge).
- Use a 60 °C bed and 200–215 °C nozzle temperature.
- Print the first layer slower with minimal cooling.
- Use a reliable surface like textured PEI or clean glass.
Master these basics and you’ll enjoy consistently strong first layers and far fewer failed prints. Once dialed in, PLA becomes incredibly easy to work with, and your success rate skyrockets.